18/09/2018
Share this story Share on Facebook icon Share on Twitter icon Share on Pinterest icon Share on Google Plus icon Share on Linked In icon Share via Email icon

How to paint laser-cut brickwork

9bc9830b-c81b-47c7-aafd-b785b513b5bc

What we used

Humbrol Enamel 70 (brick) and 118 (Matt Tan)
Humbrol Dark Earth and Smoke Weathering Powders
Beige emulsion paint 

 

The surface of laser-cut brickwork is sharp and accurate, but is too smooth to use the tried and tested pencil crayon colouring technique. 

At first we tried to dry-brush the brick faces with enamel. It worked a bit, but an awful lot of paint was picked up in the mortar lines and the results were not much better than those achieved with pencils. Next, we ran thinned mortar colour along the grooves. It's a technique that many modellers use, but one that never seems to work for us. By the time the colour is thin enough to flow, there's hardly any pigment in it. If you can make this work that's great, and it might well be the solution to this problem. 

This final method was partly inspired by the embossed Plastikard bricks on the popular layout ‘Overlord’. After painting the buildings with enamel, they are scraped with DIY store wall filler. This sticks in the mortar lines and pretty neat. 

Playing with this, we didn't like the consistency or colour but it gave me the idea to try a thick paint. Something water-based seemed like a good idea, as we could wash it away if things didn't work out. A matchpot of beige emulsion was to hand, so we gave it a go. 

First impressions weren't good but we found by applying the paint and then removing as much as possible from the brick faces, first with a scraper then some paper and finally a sponge, we ended up with a good looking result. 

Experimenting with methods and materials is part of the fun in this hobby. Some methods will work for some people so, if you are struggling, don't give up – just change the way you are doing things. Very few mistakes can't be rectified and a good coat of weathering hides many mistakes!

 

 

 

1

Regular BRM readers will have seen us colouring bricks by painting them with a base colour of Humbrol 121 enamel and rubbing pencil crayons over the faces. It's a quick and easy method. As long as you have a selection of brown pencils you'll get the colour and variation of tones seen on the real thing.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 1

2

The finishing touch is always to work some weathering powders into all the nooks and crannies as well as a general dusting all over. You can see the difference on the building here compared to the viaduct and larger building behind, which haven't received their powders yet.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 2

3

Trying the same trick on laser-cut brickwork just produces a huge mess. You can't see the mortar lines between the bricks.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 3

4

We believe the problem is down to the shape of the model bricks. Embossed or moulded bricks have curved faces whereas the laser-cut versions are very sharp. Mortar gaps between the bricks appear smaller and deeper too. Brick faces on the laser cut material seem a lot smoother too.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 4

5

After a lot of experimenting, we painted the bricks with enamel, aiming for a less than perfect finish. Once dry, beige emulsion paint from a matchpot is scraped over the surface to fill up the mortar lines. Work on a small area at a time, so the emulsion can't dry before moving on the next stage.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 5

6

Using a paper towel, wipe the emulsion away from the brick surfaces, pushing it down into the gaps.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 6

7

Leave the emulsion a few of minutes so it's touch dry, then polish the brick faces with a moist (not damp) sponge. You'll see the colour coming through strongly as you work.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 7

8

Once everything is fully dry, leave it overnight if possible and work weathering powders in with a stiff brush. We find Dark Earth and Smoke from the Humbrol range are all that's needed, although some green around the base to represent rising damp looks nice on really decrepit structures.
How to paint laser cut brickwork 8
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

We're sure you'll agree that the finished product looks great and will give your model railway buildings and realistic look. 
Want even more easy-to-follow practical advice? Click here to view our full list of How To articles

Back to "Scenery" Category

18/09/2018 Share this story   Share on Facebook icon Share on Twitter icon Share on Pinterest icon Share on Google Plus icon Share on Linked In icon Share via Email icon

Recent Updates

Model Railway Tools for Beginners

We take a look at the top model railway tools and equipment needed to help you get started. ...


Weathering Model Trains. Top Tips and Techniques

We reveal top tips and techniques for weathering model trains. ...


Model Railway Scales and gauges explained

What's the difference between scale and gauge in model railways? Here's our guide to understanding model ...


How to model loads for model railway wagons

Colourful private owner model railway wagons would normally be full of coal, so putting anything else in them ...


Other Articles

How to model wagon loads for mining areas

We take a look at suitable loads for mining areas. Coal is an obvious choice, but coke, stone, ballast and ...


VIDEO: Creating model railway bushes with Woodland Scenics

Watch the experts at Woodland Scenics show you how to create shrubs and bushes. ...


A complete guide to model railway baseboard construction

A step-by-step guide to model railway baseboard construction demonstrating how easy it can be to build the ...


How to fit DCC sound into a Dapol N Gauge 'Hall'

We show you how to fit DCC Sound into an N gauge Dapol GWR ‘Hall’ 4-6-0. ...